LIJIANG: Panba Guest House

     

Panba Guest House is located on the edge of the Ancient City in a pedestrian zone. It is another warm, cozy feeling hostel with some nice hotel-style rooms as well as dorms. The staff was not inconvenienced by our cancelled flight, the driving staying at the airport til 2:00am. They said it happens all the time in Lijiang. They didn't make us pay for the room or driver that night and told us we should go upstairs to our room to rest and relax, and then come back later to check in when we felt better. They carried all our gear up through the maze of stairs, courtyards and balconies to our lovely "Family Set Room." It consists of an indoor seating area with lattice window overlooking the rooftops and mountains, a double and a twin bed and bathroom. We also have an outdoor balcony with table and chairs overlooking the courtyard and mountains. All for $20 per night.
We noticed a sign in the lobby offering a homecooked dinner with the staff for $2.50 per person at 6:30 daily. We signed up for that. No more mystery meals for one night. We also found a washing machine, self service, and area to hang laundry. We were thrilled to peel off the clothese we'd been wearing since arrival in Beijing, jump in the shower and don clean clothes and sit in the sun on the deck. Small luxuries.
Lijiang has a lot of traditional music dance performances from the ethnic minority groups living here. Gary bought tickets to an evening show that was being performed in the town theather by the elderly Naxi orchestra. Most of the ensemble were men in their eighties wearing long silk robes and embroidered brocade vests. They have distinguishing long beards and mustasches. The music was a variety of traditional music from different dynasties and themes played on a wide range of instruments and gongs. They had electronic screens on the sides of the stage with translation in both English and Chinese characters. It was rather entertaining but one can see that it is a lost art - there were a few young women, but most everyone was over 80 years old.
After the show we wandered around the old town and were captivated by it's charm and unique flavor. At dinner one of the hostel staff, Liu Wang told us that Lijiang has become China's number one tourist destination the past two years, particularly for young people. It is known as the 'lovers vacation place.' He said young single people come here to meet others and make romantic relationships in the night clubs. This made sense considering our flight was FULL of young chinese people, many couples, in party mode. It feels like Spring Break.
The town has a series of canals running through it with arched stone bridges. Picturesque. The streets are cobbled stone worn smooth from many years of pedestrian traffice. The entire old town is a pedestrian zone. The narrow streets are lined with small shops that have wooden shutters and red lanterns hanging in unique designs. Many of the goods are craft items, or imitation tribal jewelry, flouncy skirts, and modern renditions of traditional Chinese clothing, leather bags, tea and herbs. Unfortunately much of the jewelry looks like what you'd see on the streets of Chinatown, for the same price.
We saw beautiful young women in traditional costumes sitting in the front of their shops weaving on back-strap looms, while the shop was filled with scarves. I wonder if they've woven all the scarves in the shop... tend to think not but it sure is a pretty sight.
Alongside the canals, the shops and restaurants are decorated with illuminated red lanterns and many of the trees are strung with xmas type lights so it's very pretty and festive.
As we got near the central square we could hear the pulse of of disco clubs. After the traditional music show we wandered around the main drag to investigate. It was an amazing sight. Throngs of young chinese dancing wildly, steam/fog machines, lazer lights, juggling acts and DJs in glittering garb keeping the beat. Since the climate in Lijiang is mild year round, it's open-air style. You can see right in to each club. They had small blocks of wood on the tables and customers could use them to bang percussion on the tables in time with the music. We saw women in their native costumes singing on stage amidst blue-illuminated fog and flashing lightning bolts - singing in their traditional chanting style but to a disco beat. The crowds were loving it.
Ariela said "Mom, it just makes me want to go in there and start dancing around. Maybe this could be my first nightclub experience." At the entrances, girls in a variety of ethnic costumes were hanging out trying to attract customers inside. Ariela shot a lot of video, as we had never seen anything like it. Perhaps she'll even get it up on her site.
As we walked home, our street was lined with more low-key coffee-house style establlishments where we'd see young people lounging around on sofas, in a courtyard setting, strumming guitars and singing beautiful, haunting folk music. Everyone was so friendly and upbeat. All this on a Wednesday night.